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Tokyo Kaikan New Year's cuisine

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This work I want to convey

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Based on the concept of "making all items by hand," this series "The work we want to share with you: Osechi cuisine" will be introduced in the final episode. The chef is Naoto Suzuki (Tokyo Kaikan, January 2009).

How to make Tokyo Kaikan's New Year's dishes

How to make Tokyo Kaikan's New Year's dishes

  1. New Year's tiered dishes are broadly divided into four categories: celebratory dishes, appetizers, grilled dishes, and simmered dishes, and each is packed in a separate tier. The order in which the dishes are packed may vary slightly depending on the restaurant's traditions and the person making the dish.

    Kanto osechi are characterized by the fact that they are packed tightly with no gaps. Since they are meant to be carried around, if there are any gaps when shaking them they will collapse, so the corners are made tight to prevent them from moving and all four corners are packed tightly together, literally stacking them. No matter how auspicious it may be, the original style does not include shells such as spiny lobster. Kanto osechi is packed by measuring exactly centimeters with a ruler, but this can be problematic in appearance, so we deliberately make some modifications.

    Ideally, a tiered box should be made of lacquerware. Lacquerware has wood inside, which means it is breathable and acts as a preservative, and the gold lacquer work makes it even more resistant to damage. Also, with tiered boxes, everything inside should be visible. It's not good to have items piled up so that you can't see what's underneath, which makes people feel uneasy.

    1. First course
      The first tier is the kuchitori. It is mostly sweet, and contains things like kinton, kumquats, and boiled plums. It also contains fish paste such as kamaboko, and datemaki, which is a staple of New Year's. Since it is a celebratory occasion, it is often red and white.
      First course
      Red and white kamaboko
      Seven Lucky Fortunes Datemaki
      Chestnut gold medal celebration
      spiny lobster
      Noshi chicken
      Genpei Abalone
      Crab Sarasa Yaki
      Matsuba's mother-in-law
      Gosan-Take Nanbanzuke
      Plum blossom yam
      Akabekoyaki
      Golden grilled squid
      Nishiki egg
      Lily root soup
      Candied kumquats

    2. Second layer
      The second tier basically contains grilled dishes. Seafood is placed here to prevent the smell of fish from transferring to other dishes as much as possible. Vinegared dishes, or other sour foods, are also placed here. Grilled dishes tend to become hard, so they cannot be cooked any longer than necessary, and tend to spoil rather quickly, but even just one vinegared dish, such as a single pickled plum, can make a huge difference in how long they last. Meat such as duck also does not keep well, so it is not that long ago that it began to be placed in tiered tiers, I think it must have been from the 1950s onwards.
      Second layer
      Grilled salted sea bream
      Grilled Spanish mackerel roll
      True fish and bonito yuzuan grilled
      Salmon and sake grill
      Grilled tilefish with Saikyo miso sauce
      Grilled cod flavor
      Yellowtail teriyaki
      Conger eel roll
      Grilled clams
      Grilled scallops with sea urchin
      Jurume Inro Yaki
      Duck hoe grilled
      Burdock root with vinegar
      battledore
      Brush ginger

    3. Third layer
      The third box mainly contains boiled vegetables with sugar. Sweet potatoes with high sugar content such as shrimp potatoes and taro are usually not included because they crack quickly and fall apart when boiled, which is different from the Kansai region.
      Originally, osechi cuisine was made with dried foods, so there was no custom of adding raw foods. The first vegetables harvested that year were first offered to the gods after the autumn harvest, and then the dishes were made with the leftovers, so fish and potatoes were always dried in the sun before being used.
      Also, unlike today, sugar was a precious commodity in the past, so a good osechi or o-juku was all about its weight and how much sugar it contained.
      Third layer
      Eight Heads
      Boiled Tiger Prawns in Sake
      Matsukasa Tsunemushi
      Bamboo shoots with spikes
      Plum blossom ginseng
      Tsurunagaimo
      Tortoiseshell Shiitake Mushroom
      Hirouzu (fried tofu dumpling)
      Braised pork
      Daitokuji Fu
      Temari Fu
      Matsukasa mother-in-law
      Bamboo gluten
      Umefu (plum and wheat gluten)
      Konnyaku and tortoiseshell stew

    4. The weight of giving
      The fourth box, Yo-no-ju, is for celebratory dishes. The character "yo" is used to avoid the character "four". It is a dish representative of New Year's, and contains auspicious dishes such as herring roe, black beans, dried sardines, rolls such as kombu-jime and kombu-maki, namasu, and kanroni. This is similar to the kuchitori, but it contains more dried goatfish, herring, sweetfish, and herring roe. Herring roe is now salted, but originally it was dried and rehydrated in rice water.
      The weight of giving
      Herring and kelp roll
      Conger eel wrapped in kelp
      Sweetfish roe rolled in white plate
      Oura burdock root stew
      Sockeye Salmon Gyuhi Roll
      Black beans and grapes stew
      Herring roe flavor stew
      Teriyaki simmered dried sardines
      Octopus and plum stew
      Duck fish nanbanzuke
      Boiled crucian carp with candy
      Candied Shark
      Bottarga
      Ice head fish
      Genpei sashimi

    5. Five layers
      Jyutsume is most commonly used for New Year's, but it is also used for all five seasonal festivals. Outside of New Year's, it is often simplified and consists of just two layers.
      The number of layers is said to represent the four seasons, and four layers is the formal number. In the case of a five-layered box, the bottom layer is a supplementary layer, and the whole rolls of Datemaki, Konbumaki, and boiled octopus are packed here without being cut, and when the contents of each layer are used up, cut them up and add more.

【作る前に調味料の配合を確認したい方へ】

鈴木直登

  • Otemachi Tokyo Kaikan
  • Japanese cuisine head chef and instructor